Bakuchiol, which has gained popularity as a safer and natural alternative to retinoids, has recently become one of the curious ingredients. We have compiled information about this versatile and exciting content for you.
What is Bakuchiol?
The seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, called babchi , have been used for many years in Ayurvedic and Chinese traditional medicine for the treatment of various skin conditions. Bakuchiol , which takes its name from the Sanskrit word "bakuchi", is an active substance isolated from the seeds of the plant by purification by various processes.
In addition to its long and deep-rooted history, the effectiveness of Bakuchiol has been supported by scientific studies. Before we get into how promising an ingredient it is, let's talk briefly about retinoids, the gold standard in anti-aging skin care.
Retinoids, together with the most effective form of retinoic acid, is the general name of the active ingredients from the vitamin A group, which are different derivatives such as Retinol, Retinal and Retinyl palmitate. It has been proven by clinical studies that they are effective in wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, acne and various skin problems. In addition, their use is problematic due to the high rate of side effects such as irritation, dryness of the skin, peeling, redness and burning.
Effects on the skin
Although bakuchiol is not chemically similar to retinoids, there are clear similarities between the ingredients in their effects on anti-aging genes and proteins. In a 2014 study, it was shown that the Bakuchiol molecule stimulates important anti-aging genes on the skin, where retinol binds and acts.
Bakuchiol has also been shown to have skin regenerating, anti-inflammatory and anti-acne effects. Bakuchiol inhibits melanin synthesis by blocking both alpha melanocyte stimulating hormone activation and tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin synthesis. In addition, thanks to its strong antioxidant effects, it reduces hyperpigmentation and has an anti-blemish effect. Finally, bakuchiol improves hydration by up-regulating the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, which helps improve skin hydration.
Clinical trial examples
In a clinical study conducted by Dhaliwal et al. in 2019 with 44 volunteers, the effects of 0.5% bakuchiol against the same amount of retinol were evaluated. At the end of 12 weeks, they were shown to have a similar improvement in wrinkles and spots. It has also been reported that Retinol users have more flaking and stinging on their skin.
A lotion containing 1% bakuchiol was evaluated in another clinical study with 16 volunteers aged 41 to 60 years . At the end of 12 weeks, there were statistically significant reductions in wrinkle depth and skin roughness. Significant improvements were noted in elasticity, firmness and skin tone. While the results appeared from the 4th week, it was observed that it became much more pronounced at the 12th week.
How did we use it?
Bakuchiol is a valuable ingredient that has promising results with its multi-faceted effects. It is one of the important advantages that it can be used especially on sensitive skin and during pregnancy, and that it does not cause sun sensitivity. In our Bakuchiol Botanical Oil face and eye serums, we have combined this valuable ingredient with valuable oils and plant extracts, especially rosehip seed oil, sea buckthorn oil and astaxanthin.
References
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cos Sci 2014; 36: 221-230.
- Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol 2019; 180:289-296.
- Chaudhuri RK, Marchio F. Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmet Toilet 2011; 126: 502-510.
- Bluemke A, Ring AR, Immeyer J et al. Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial aging – experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach. Int J Cosmet Sci 2022; 44: 377-393.
- Sadgrove NJ, Oblong JE, Simmonds MSJ. Inspired by vitamin A for anti-aging : searching for plant-derived functional retinoid analogues. Skin Health Dis 2021; 1: e36.
